Posted by This turned out better than I had imagined!!
The fabric is a stable ponte in cobalt blue from Minerva’s Core Range. Given to me as part of my role as a Minerva ambassador.
The pattern is an ‘Amazing fit’ pattern from Simplicity.
It’s a great pattern but does assume you have some previous knowledge in inserting zips etc. The instruction for inserting the invisible zip was simply ‘ insert invisible zip according to manufacturers instructions’!! However the instructions for getting the fit just right are very good.
Being a Simplicity ‘amazing fit’ pattern there is a whole inch seam allowance down the side seams and the arm sleeve seam.
This allows you to baste the dress together, without the neck facing, and make any adjustments you need.
Initially I cut out a size 14, erring on the side of caution because I was in between sizes at the bust. However, after basting I ended up re-cutting everything, except at the waist, down to a size 12.
I went with the simple sleeve and the longer skirt length, although took 3 inches off the skirt length once trying it on.
The forgiving side pleats are very easy to do and very effective. The pleats are basted with the machine and then stabilised with a narrow ribbon ( I save those annoying hanging ribbons you get in ready to wear clothes for this purpose) sewn on top of the basted line once you’re happy with the fit before permanently sewing the side seam together.
This Minerva Core Range stable ponte is lovely to work with. It has great recovery and took the invisible zip insertion without any problems.
It’s perfect for a bodycon dress such as this. It is so comfy, it just needs smooth underwear!
So the one problem with this dress is the zip. You live and learn all the time with this sewing lark. The invisible zip went in beautifully, first time. I was very pleased with it. However I think I should have used one of those more lightweight flexible ones. This one gives me a bulge over my bra strap and another where it ends at my bottom.!
I can’t live with it. I’m going to have to replace it or I shall be forever conscious of it and I love this dress too much. If anyone has any other ideas, I love to hear them.
Love, Lucie xx
EDIT: At one of my commenter’s suggestion, I’ve since completely removed the zip and I can easily get it over my head! A great win!!!!!!
Love, Lucie 
Lucie I love your dress it looks fabulous on you. Kenneth D. King has a great technique for zippers that he learned from Lynda Maynard. Go to You Tube and search “ A smart sewing technique for an imperceptible zipper”. I am planning on trying the ponte you’ve used
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Thank you, will do
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Yes, I used that technique. I think my zipper is just too heavy for the fabric. And it finishes at an unfortunate point. I’m going to try to shorten it a little before replacing it.
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Since it’s a stretchy fabric and (like me) you have narrower hips compared to all other measurements, I wonder if you could do a side seam zip under your arm? It’s a less noticeable position.
Or, have you tried getting it on and off with the zip done up to see if you can do without it altogether? I have a vogue dress in ponte and found I didn’t actually need a zip.
It’s a great dress btw but I totally understand knowing that you will be self-conscious when you wear it. The colour looks fab on you.
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Really good points. Shortening the zip considerably might just do the trick. It’ll be the first thing I try and is the easiest solution. 😀
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Hi Hayley. I’m very happy to report that your suggestion worked!! So the zip is now removed and it’s perfect!! 😀😀
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Ahhh I’m so pleased it worked! Because it is SUCH a fantastic dress, and now it’s even better because you feel 100% confident in it.
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Looks great! Kenneth D King has an invisible zipper installation video which eliminates the lower pouf. I use it every time. You can find it by googling. It is a Threads thing but available to all.
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Hi Heather. The zip has gone in immaculately with no pouf. It’s the very end of the zip that is causing the problem. I think it is just ending at a bad place on the widest part of my bum!
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Dress looks great. Nice cut and very flattering on you. I understand about the zip. Too bad the zip isn’t at the side, under arm ending at hip. Seems the top opening is more than large enough for your head . . . Great color on you too. Thanks for posting.
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Love this look ! Do you think this pattern would work for small cup – like AA-A? Beautiful make and I like that you took the zip out. A decision I have made on a ponte top that calls for a zip – cant see the need with the stretch ponte provides
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Thank you! I wish I could advise. I’m a bra size D so have no experience in small cup adjustments. I think if you made up the ‘slim’ version a go from there. With the centre seam and the below bust seam there looks to be plenty of opportunity for adjustment
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