Revisiting the Sasha Trousers

It’s always good to revisit a successful pattern. This are the Sasha Trousers by Closet Core Patterns

I’ve made several of these before but they are all a little big now. They’re packed away in the loft because you never know when you might need them again! You can revisit them here

The Sasha trousers by Closet Core Patterns call for a stretch woven. I’ve chosen to use bengaline this time, which I’ve never used before. I’ve had bengaline ready to wear trousers previously so I know how comfortable they are to wear due to the high percentage of stretch.

Due to the large stretch percentage I knew I was likely to need some further adjustment even after going down a size. But beware – there is little ease in these trousers as designed. 1 inch ease on the waist, 1 inch negative ease on the hip. The 5/8 inch seam allowance is helpful for adjustments.

Initially I sized down to a 8 but grading up to a 10 at the waist. I’m a 37” hip, 30”waist.

Taken from the Foldline website, ‘Featuring classic tailored details, a flattering mid-rise with a contour waistband, slim, tapered leg and a comfortable stretch fit, these are wear-everywhere pants that can easily move from day to night.

View A is a full-length pant with slashed hip pockets and a slimming pocket stay along the front and single welt pockets at the back. View B is cropped and omits the pockets for a sleek, clean silhouette. Both views can be sewn with optional belt loops, a hidden closure and pressed leg crease.’

So mine are View B but with the pockets from View A. I’ve included the optional belt loops as I never know exactly how trousers are going to behave until I’ve worn them for the day.

What I remembered from all my previous Sasha Trousers, but didn’t have the confidence or knowledge to change, was the way the inside legs seam used to make its way towards the front. So this time I tried them on before overlocking the seams and adding the waist band and I could see them were unattractively baggy around the thigh. Instead of taking them in a little everywhere I took the spare fabric from the rear leg panel inside seam.

I took 2cm off each rear panel inner seam from the base, grading out to 1cm off the rear panel inner seam at the crotch. This has definitely improved the issue.

They do look quite snug from the back! But in this super stretchy fabric they don’t feel it.

The image of the Sashas from the Closet Core site shows they are designed to be worn snug.

The fabric is a bengaline remnant from the Sewing Social. I think I had the last of it but this is very similar. For those new to bengaline this particular one has 74% Viscose 22% Polyester 4% Elastane which is a typical composition.

Of course being a print means a have a limited choice of tops to wear with them, but really that’s not something I suffer with!

The perfect summer trousers!

Love, Lucie xx

Tutorials for the pattern on the Closet Core Website can be found here

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