With these trousers I feel I have reached a huge milestone in my sewing learning.
I know for many of us one of the biggest reasons we sew, is to produce well fitting, flattering, comfortable clothes.
For me this was particularly the case with work trousers.
For years I have struggled with my thigh, hip, waist ratio and never achieving more than 2 out of the 3 in ready to wear. With a preference for slim fitting, slim leg, as I’m often visiting a construction site, this seemed doubly unobtainable!!
But no more.
Taken from the Foldline website, ‘Featuring classic tailored details, a flattering mid-rise with a contour waistband, slim, tapered leg and a comfortable stretch fit, these are wear-everywhere pants that can easily move from day to night.
View A is a full-length pant with slashed hip pockets and a slimming pocket stay along the front and single welt pockets at the back. View B is cropped and omits the pockets for a sleek, clean silhouette. Both views can be sewn with optional belt loops, a hidden closure and pressed leg crease.’
I’m wearing these today (still working from home) to ensure I am perfectly happy with the rise and waist before I go and cut out another 2 pairs and condemn all my rtw work trousers to the charity bag.
My office return is planned for the end of September, so I’ll be ready!!
Anyway back to the make.
In accordance with my measurements I made a size 8 at the hip and graded 2 sizes up to a size 12 at the waist.
For my Closet Core Ginger Jeans, I cut out the same but took the waist in to a size 10 on fitting, so I thought I’d be safe.
I used this Bi-Stretch Gabardine in burgundy from My Fabrics. (at a cool £9.45/m)
|Material:||62% Polyester, 32% Viscose, 6% Spandex|
|Use:||Business clothing, Trousers, Skirts, Dresses, Blazers|
Before starting on the pockets I completed the darts and basted the legs and waist band together in a light coloured thread for a fitting. So pleased I did!!
Looking at the pattern photo, and also many other Instagram makes, these trousers take full advantage of the stretch of the fabric and are very fitting! The fabric was pulling everywhere and not at all flattering. Letting them out to a size 10 over the hip and bum did the trick. Thank goodness for 16mm seam allowances!!
I think a stretch cotton twill would possibly be better if you wanted to make them up with less ease.
I made them up according to the excellent instructions. The welt pockets were an unexpected triumph!
Remarkably I didn’t need to make any adjustment to the crotch area.
I did not include the front pockets as my stomach always makes these pockets bag out when sitting down and I wanted to maintain a sleeker look.
However, I did include the front pocket stays to provide support to my stomach across the front panel, which I like in my Ginger Jeans. I will definitely do this again in all future trouser makes. It seems to stop any pulling at the zip which happens in the course of the day, unlike my cargo pants which have no pocket stay tying into the zip.
This lovely lawn was picked up from Dewsbury market.
I made them at the longest pattern length (I’m 5 ft 3) but took 2 inches off the bottom before turning them up an inch. I wanted these just above my ankle bone.
I also tapered them in by one size from the knee to the ankle.
So after a day in these I’m still surperbly happy. Navy next!!
Love, Lucie xx