Tello Jacket by Pauline Alice – for Simply Sewing Magazine

This is the Tello Jacket by Pauline Alice.

Back in February I was very flattered to be contacted by Simply Sewing Magazine asking me if I would like to contribute to their May edition of their magazine by reviewing a pattern of my choice and this is what I chose.

Whilst I have sewn up many jackets and blazers over the past couple of years I was on the lookout for a more casual ‘Worker Jacket,’ or ‘Chore Coat’, a lighter weight relaxed jacket. More of a light weight ‘Shacket’ for spring.

There are many examples, by many designers. I went with the Tello Jacket due to its simplicity and lack of lining.

I liked the quirky zip breast pocket and the way you could go mad with the topstitching to highlight the details.

I knew I wanted a traditional canvas for this traditional make. This luxurious Meet Milk canvas is made from 100 % TENCEL Lyocell which gives it the softest touch and more drape than you would meet in a cotton canvas.

It did have a tendency to fray quite easily due to its fairly loose weave so before prewashing it I would recommend zigzagging or overlocking the edges. I didn’t do this and lost a couple of inches of fabric in the process!

Due to its loose weave, I was concerned about the fabric stretching out so I stay-stitched around the edge of all the garment pieces just within the seam allowance, immediately after cutting out.

I chose to do lots of edge stitching using a top stitching thread, which definitely added to the time to make this garment but that was one of the things that drew me to it.

Possibly the most challenging thing about this sew was my choice of fabric. I tried to cut it out exactly on the grain to reduce fraying and handled it very gently to prevent it stretching out. With a more traditional cotton canvas this would have been a lot easier.

One additional thing I chose to do whilst making this up was interface the collar and jacket facing, the tops of the pockets and also the zip opening. The pattern instructions did not state the use of interfacing, which I thought a little odd.

The pattern sizing was spot on for a neat fit ( I made size 38 in accordance with my bust measurement) with just a light-weight top underneath. I would size up if you were after a more oversized look or wanted to wear more layers. As usual with me, I took an inch off the sleeve length and took 1cm off the shoulder width where it meets the top of the sleeve head to have the top of the sleeve sit nicely on my shoulder where it should.

The instructions also provide instructions for lining it too. I chose not to do that as I wanted a more light weight garment. I did bind all my seam allowances with home-made bias tape – something I had not done before and would definitely recommend taking time to do this.

Because the top of the jacket flaps open. I had to topstitch in this area both from the front and the back as using top stitching thread on my bobbin just caused a knotty mess!.

And here’s my article. In Simply Sewing, out today !!!!

Love, Lucie xx