Butterick 6862 Blazer

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I’m so so pleased with this make. Beware, this is a long read!

I used all I had learnt from my previous SelfMade Patterns green blazer and learnt a whole lot more.

I had picked up this fabric from Fabworks during their summer linen release. It’s the Indigo Chambray style linen cotton mix at £12/m.

The pattern Is Butterick 6862

It’s a fairly new Butterick pattern. I choose it because it seemed very much like what is in the shops right now, slightly oversized, not too fitted.

I was also intrigued by the ‘Palmer Pletsch’ Tissue Fitting Method shown on the pattern.

For a pattern of the ‘Big Four’ the instructions were very detailed, especially the first couple of pages describing the fitting process.

In the end I didn’t actually follow the tissue fitting guide. I felt it was fairly impossible to do by myself and frankly I was impatient to crack on.

However I did take the advice to size down, if in between sizes.

My measurements are 35” bust, 31” waist, 37” hip.

I took a big gamble and went for the size 12! I did check the pieces against other older ready to wear blazers, both of which were now a little small and it seemed I still had plenty of seam allowance to play with.

I first took 3 inches off the arm length and 1.5 inches off the jacket length at the shortening/lengthening lines on the pattern.

I made it up as far the front with pocket and back and collar and then basted on the sleeve. It didn’t look great at this point, really wide across the back, with huge shoulders. But great across the front, hip and bust.

Unfortunately I didn’t take a photo at this point but I ended up taking 1.5cm of the width of the shoulders, and then continued taking 1cm from both seam allowances down the pink line on the image above. It was still a bit billowy in my mid back by the armscye so I took another cm in both seam allowances down the orange line.

I’m really pleased how it fits now, any further fitting would have taken it beyond the slightly oversized look, so my gamble paid off.

So new things I learnt was how to do these pockets.

And this lined vent.

One other change was changing the shape of the collar

I made up the collar as per the pattern but found the collar point a little too severe and impactful for a more casual jacket, so went back in and resewed it.

It’s lined with stripy lining from my stash

Interfacing wise I used a medium weight fusible to the front, sides, collar and facing pieces. And a lighter weight fusible interfacing for the back pieces, to reduce possible wrinkling.

I interfaced the top of the sleeve heads, and sewed in sleeve heads and shoulder pads, exactly like my green jacket

One change I would make is to narrow the sleeves a little next time

But I’m being really fussy!

I have 2 more blazers planned. A navy one in a ponte fabric for work, probably the comfy Itch to Stitch La Paz jacket for work and also a navy fitted one with brass buttons, possibly double breasted, but I’ve not found a pattern yet.

I also want to try the Closet Core Jasika Blazer!

So I’m not yet finished on my blazer journey. But, I might just make up a simple blouse first!!

Love, Lucie xx

11 comments

  1. This is a great looking and fitting blazer, good work!
    I found your comments on the Palmer P method interesting – I’m just starting a new Melissa Watson pattern McCalls 8210 lightweight pretty untitled jacket that is way too oversized for me based on the photos. I’ll size waaay down, I expect.😊 I typically use Alexandra Morgan’s fitting methods.

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  2. This looks great Lucie I’ve been watching your blazer journey as I’m about to embark on one myself. I bought the out of print McCall’s M7120 which also has the Palmer Pletsch fitting intructions. I was going to make the more relaxed view with patch pockets but, when I made the toile, it looked like a coat on me and I felt the patch pockets were a bit too far on the wrong side of informal. I’ve been practising welt pockets with a flap -Eek!! But they look so smart when they’re done and it will be something else to add to my sewing experiences.
    I was going to buy the Closet Core Jasika workshop to go along with my own pattern as I’ve already bought it now and, while I’m waiting for my fabric to arrive, I’m still considering it as I think it will probably be worth it in the long run.
    I’ve got so many clothes I really don’t need any more so I’m taking on more involved projects that I don’t mind taking my time over and that will be good for learning new skills. I’ve just finished making Closet Core’s Kelly anorak in waxed cotton which was a challenge but I’m really chuffed with the results.
    I’m looking forward to seeing your next blazer and thanks for taking the time to show us some of your steps.
    x

    Liked by 1 person

    1. How lovely to hear from you!!
      I’ve got the pattern for the Kelly anorak and I’m hoping to sew that one up this winter. It looks like the perfect anorak to me. Did you line yours? A lot of people have struggled with it.
      I’ve been wondering about the Jasika course but I think I’ve learnt quite a bit already. I think my body shape is fairly ‘average’ so I don’t have to do anything major, just tweak it here and there, which makes it easier, I think.
      I’ve seen some beautiful pink wool from Fabworks today, but I’d have to make it in something cheaper first 🤣
      Anyway, I hope you are well and are doing ok xx

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      1. I didn’t line the anorak but underlined the hood, the back yoke and the sleeves. The worse bit was attaching the snaps as they are done at the end and I was terrified of messing them up and spoiling the whole garment.
        I’m coping O.K., thanks for asking, and will try to get back to blogging soon. x

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      1. Oh that’s great. I did a skirt with that sort of a vent and really struggled with how to line it. That pattern could be worth buying just for that part of the instructions alone.
        I love your jacket. You’ve done a spectacular job on it. Love following along with your work on your blog.

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  3. I would love to make one just like yours. I haven’t seen a pattern of clothing for a very long time. I did make a blazer before…moons ago. I wonder how difficult this would be for me. Excellent job. I love all the colors too.

    Liked by 1 person

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