Posted by I have been procrastinating about sewing with stretch fabrics for some time now.
Yes, I have worked with stretch cotton; my pink top was a lovely success, but the fabric did not differ from cotton to work with.
Working with stretch fabrics had become somewhat of a monster in my brain and apparently for no reason as this weekend’s foray into jersey has proven.
It all started when I picked up this kiwi inspired printed jersey from a NEW SEWING SHOP(!!!!!!!!!!!) opened a few months ago in Wakefield. Our amazing new sewing shop Benjie Bee is more akin to a shop you read about, opening ‘down south’, not in West Yorkshire!
It sells different and interesting fabrics! There are even sewing classes! And they are held in evenings or weekends! You could knock me down with a feather.
There is a trouser fitting course that I’m very interested in, and also a class in the making of a shirt dress.
On my first visit, I did not leave empty handed.
But, you know I love to make a toile. I had bought this a while back. 2m of cheap light weight jersey to basically have a play with, practice my stitching, gauge my tension, use my twin needle.
And of course I needed a pattern
A cowl top had to be the way to start. I had seen a great many of these cowl neck tops on google and Pinterest. I had been especially drawn to the tops that Anne had made for her beautiful daughters on her blog the Compulsive Seamstress. Take a look at her blog; it is full of really flattering well fitted garments made for herself and her girls.
And sew (ha!), to the cowl neck top.
Just two pieces, a front and a back.
On some scrap fabric I practiced before moving onto my cut out pieces.
And in just 2 hours I had this!
In the absence of my daughter, my husband took these photos which is remarkable in itself!
A completely wearable toile.
I think I may become addicted to this pattern but I may size up for my intended kiwi fabric. It is slightly thicker and I do look a little ‘busty’ in the photos I haven’t shown you!
What do you think? Size up for a slightly thicker fabric and go more more ‘drape’ and less ‘cling’?
Love, Lucie xx
Love, Lucie 
I think the fit is perfect – what’s wrong with looking a bit bustier than normal for heaven’s sake! I’m sure your husband will agree with me on that one. The kiwi fabric is completely gorgeous and I can’t wait to see it made up. Such a pretty pattern.
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Just cautious about looking like mutton dressed up as lamb!
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I know what you mean but it’s not as if you’ve got acres of cleavage on show so it’s not in the slightest bit mutton:)
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True
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Wow, you are on such a sewing roll! So impressed with this one. And just two hours?! I really need to dust off my sewing machine and stop just zonking in front of the TV in the evenings and actually make myself some new clothes.
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You have two small excuses. You SHOULD be zonked out in front of the TV. Plenty of time for this later!
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I just made one of these too for my hols with tacky birds of paradise on it. I felt great to wear something me made. I live in Morley so another shop in Wakefield is really great. You look lovely. Cant wait to see the other fabric made up K xXx
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I can see me making this up many many times. So quick. I’d love to see your birds one!
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It looks great. I knew you’d succumb to the lure of jersey even though I see you have a pack of the dreaded clear elastic there. I think I’ve sorted my aversion to it now though by putting it directly on the seam I’m overlocking and serging the three layers together.
I have one of those cowl neck tops – bought it before I became a ‘friend of jersey’ – and I think there is something about the style that does make your bust look bigger. Good news for those who think they need it, not so good for those who think they don’t.
The question of using different weights of stretch fabrics when figuring out what size to make is interesting. The stretchier they are – think viscose jersey – the more positive ease you have and with something like interlock you don’t have so much leeway to maneouevre those curves into so the stretch factor does have to be taken into account. I think the thinner fabric you used will appear more ‘clingy’ in any case and I see your new fabric has a 5% spandex content (get me and my eagle eyes!!) so you should be fine.
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Great. Thanks for all that. You were right about the jersey – nothing to be afraid of. I’ll have a go with the same size. It is thicker, so you shouldn’t see my bra pattern through this one.
As for the elastic, I was setting myself up for a fail having reading many posts of the trouble it gives. Surprisingly I had no problem with it. There was the odd skipped stitch here are there but mostly only when I stopped with my needle up. Nothing you could see on the outside, once turned under and once I had worked out when it skipped, it was less of a problem.
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p.s. I would love to go on a trouser making workshop so I am envious you have the opportunity right on your doorstop. And a new sewing shop too when they seem to be closing so many down. I noticed on Friday that even the fabric section in Ikea (the one in Toulouse) has shrunk by a significant amount since the last time I saw it. No more 1.99 euro per metre wide plain white cotton for making toiles 😦
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It’s a 10 week course from October on a Thursday evening which is perfect. And I might get to make some local sewing buddies too!
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Hey well done with breaking out if the woven-fabric-only sewing bubble! I did the same a few months ago, and now I’m having trouble persuading myself to use woven fabric again, thinking about all of those darn seam allowances that’ll have up be finished neatly! And jersey fabric is so much easier to wear daily – no pre-planning and ironing needed! 🙂
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Absolutely! I was amazed how it didn’t fray at all. And I was expecting wibbly seams, but no, all good. Just watch, I’m setting myself up for a massive fail on the next one!!
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Looks great on you, and the perfect fit! I was so scared of sewing with knits too at first, but now I actually prefer them. You’ll be hooked before you know it 🙂
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Ha, ha! Yes, I think I already am!
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I discovered the shop by accident after I’d been at our work’s HQ in Wakefield. I googled fabric shops & was very giddy when I found a new fabric shop & called in after work. I didn’t buy anything but looking forward to calling again when I’ve more time.
PS the top looks a great fit 😀
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Thank you!
Yes, I was please to come across it. It’s early days so imagine the stock will grow but it was so good to see more than the usual offerings.
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Oh I really like this; the colour, the style, the fit, but mostly the very neat hem and armholes. It looks very professional!
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Thank you very much. I hope my next one will be as good.;)
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That is one cute top! And your stutching is so neat! Thanks for sharing ~ its a new to me designer so am off to look at the patterns 😀
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She seems to focus on great every day wearable garments and we all need those. Thanks for stopping by.
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Love the top pattern and the fit seems fine to me. I would like to be brave enough to try any sort of stretch fabric but not quite ready yet !
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It’s taken me about 6 months!
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Your D2N top looks fabulous and you look great in it.
It is addictive pattern! I have made 4 or 5 tops and I am planning to make more.
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I’ve just cut out top No 2 and top No 3 and realised I don’t have enough elastic. Argh!!!!!
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🙂 I Loe it 🙂
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I love, love, love it. One question, is your twin needle a jersey (blunt) one?
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I’m not really sure. It was the one that came with my machine 14 years ago! I had never used it before. I did wonder if I would need to purchase a ball point twin needle but had a go with a scrap piece and it was fine.
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This post of yours has perfect timing! I’ve just bought some jersey last Friday and I have nice top pattern to go with it but I’m a bit worried because my sewing machine can’t do the overcast stitch…. should I give it a try anyway?
BTW your top is beautiful! 😉
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Thanks!
I would really give it a try, others seem to manage, but practice all the stitches first on some scrap. Use a ball point needle and don’t stretch or pull. Just let the machine take it through, make sure your fabric is on the table, not allowing the weight of the fabric to pull the jersey that is under the needle.
Good luck!
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Thank you! 😉
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